Historic Monnickendam
Historical tour of 'Old Crafts'. Picturesque Monnickendam is a monumental town with a rich history. Today, buildings and street names still recall the hustle and bustle and thriving trade of yesteryear.
There are dozens of monumental buildings in the town centre. Today's shipyards and smokehouses have been a permanent presence in Monnickendam. On this interactive tour, learn about the various crafts that made Monnickendam so successful.
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Tourist Office MonnickendamZuideinde 2
1141 VJ Monnickendam
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Listen | Origins of Monnickendam
Look around you, as you can see, water is omnipresent here in canals, ditches and the IJsselmeer. The water was and still is Monnickendam's lifeline.
Listen | Origins of Monnickendam
Look around you, as you can see, water is omnipresent here in canals, ditches and the IJsselmeer. The water was and still is Monnickendam's lifeline.
It is the reason the city came into being, grew and prospered. And when the seaport silted up and later the Zuiderzee became the IJsselmeer, it was the reason the town's growth slowed down. Today, water still plays an important role in the lives of Monnickendammers.
Because of its location on the water, Monnickendam was and is a breeding ground for craftsmen. Such as fishermen, eel smokers and rope makers. But also for craftsmen who are still active today such as ice sailors and ship builders. What can you still see of these old and new crafts today? You will find out on this interactive walking tour of this watery trading town.
We start in front of the VVV (tourist information office) on the spot where Monnickendam was founded. About 800 years ago, monks built a small church here. They chose this location quite deliberately. The confluence of the Noorder and Zuiderdijk had created a high mound here. Do you see that the roads on both sides of the lock still slope up slightly?
Soon Monnickendam grew into a real town. This was mainly due to its favourable location. On the Zuiderzee, at the centre of the route between the trading towns in France and the Hanseatic cities in northern Germany. Moreover, via the rivers and canals in Monnickendam's hinterland, ships could easily reach the port of Amsterdam. That saved them a lot of time. Because otherwise they had to sail around the island of Pampus, a trip that could take a very long time due to strong currents. By sailing via the locks at Monnickendam, merchant ships avoided literally 'lying in front of Pampus' for days.
Would you like to see on the map how Monnickendam was surrounded by water in the past? In the menu under 'pictures' you will find a map of the past. Then continue the tour by keeping to the left. Then cross the street towards the Waegh - the building on your left with the city coat of arms on the facade.
Listen | The Waegh
The imposing building you see before you is the Waegh. Today it is a grand café but it used to be the city's economic hub. Foodstuffs such as fish, butter, grain and cheese were traded here.
Listen | The Waegh
The imposing building you see before you is the Waegh. Today it is a grand café but it used to be the city's economic hub. Foodstuffs such as fish, butter, grain and cheese were traded here.
Trading took place under the canopy and inside. The windows were simply open then, making the scales a kind of covered market square where everyone walked in and out. Everything traded also had to be weighed. For this, the Monnickendammers used large scales. You can still see these with your own eyes. If you look in through the windows, you can still see the balance arm of the old scale.
But the Waegh had many more functions. It was also the headquarters of the fire brigade, militia and served as a guesthouse. Poor inhabitants of the city, who had little to eat, could get a plate of porridge at the Waegh. Troet was called this mixture of oatmeal and groats. A special kind of goodness, to which the people of Monnickendam owe their nickname 'Troeters'.
Walk back across the bridge and continue the route across the water onto the Gooische kaai.
Listen | Fish auction
Diagonally left in front of you at the end of the bridge, you see a small square stone building. This is 'De Steg', the old fish market. This is where fishermen traded their fresh catch.
Listen | Fish auction
Diagonally left in front of you at the end of the bridge, you see a small square stone building. This is 'De Steg', the old fish market. This is where fishermen traded their fresh catch.
To moor their boat there, they first had to pass under the low bridge you’ve just walked over. This was rather inconvenient, as ships with long masts couldn’t pass underneath it. As a solution, the people of Monnickendam created a section of the bridge deck that could be folded open. This created a narrow opening, also known as an oorgat’. By manoeuvring precisely through this, sailing ships could still pass under the bridge without it needing to be opened. The oorgat is still in use today; it is the wooden section of the bridge with a layer of gravel.
It is striking that Monnickendam itself never had a fishing fleet. All the fish traded at the fish auction came from other towns on the Zuiderzee, such as Marken, Huizen, Volendam and Spakenburg. These Zuiderzee fishermen came specifically to Monnickendam to sell their catch. This had been decided by Landheer Philips de Goede and enshrined in law.
Thanks to the popular fish auction, a large fish-processing industry developed here. You can find out more about this at one of the following locations.
Continue straight ahead, then cross the bridge to the Stegh.
Listen | Marker Veerhuis
To your right, you can see the Marker Veerhuis, the meeting place and waiting room for the people who waited for the boat to the island of Marken. Before the harbour office, walk right up the jetty to the quay with a bench.
Listen | Marker Veerhuis
To your right, you can see the Marker Veerhuis, the meeting place and waiting room for the people who waited for the boat to the island of Marken. Before the harbour office, walk right up the jetty to the quay with a bench.
You are now standing on the quay where the boat to and from Marken used to dock. Looking across the water, you can see the headland Hemmeland on the right. Behind it is Marken. Nowadays, the boat no longer goes. The former island is now accessible by car via a dike.
In the past, ships could easily reach the port of Amsterdam via the rivers and canals in the hinterland of Monnickendam. That saved them a lot of time. Because otherwise they had to sail around the island of Pampus, a trip that could take a very long time due to the strong currents. By sailing via the locks at Monnickendam, merchant ships avoided literally 'lying in front of Pampus' for days.
In winter, the Gouwzee between Monnickendam and Marken is one of the first parts of the IJsselmeer to freeze over. This makes it a suitable place for skating and ice sailing, a traditional Monnickendam winter hobby. Because when the Gouwzee was frozen and the ferry could not sail, ice sailors transported people and goods up and down to Marken. If you are curious to see how ice sailing works, the video in the menu shows ice sailors on the Gouwzee in action.
After watching the video, continue the route with the Marker Veerhuis on your right. Feel free to take a photo of this beautiful view. You can look back at home later on your smartphone or PC by logging in to your personal I-Tours page.
Listen | Hakvoort
In a port city, of course the craft of shipbuilding cannot be missed. To your right is where ships have been built since 1726. Back then, this was called the 'Great Slope'. The sloping bank was the ideal place to launch large ships.
Listen | Hakvoort
In a port city, of course the craft of shipbuilding cannot be missed. To your right is where ships have been built since 1726. Back then, this was called the 'Great Slope'. The sloping bank was the ideal place to launch large ships.
Even today, ships are still made on the site of the 'Grote Helling'. This is now home to Hakvoort, the largest shipyard in the Monnickendam area. Until around 1980, Hakvoort mainly made inland navigation vessels such as botters and 'kwakken'. But also North Sea cutters, tugs and Shell tankers.
Nowadays, pleasure yachts are the main source of income. Logical, because since the construction of the afsluitdijk in 1932, there has been less and less fishing and trading. After all, the ships that used to leave for other trading cities on the Baltic Sea, in England, France and Belgium could no longer reach the IJsselmeer and Monnickendam. As a result, Monnickendam lost much of its luster. But in its place, pleasure boating actually increased.
When the weather is good, Hakvoort's sliding door is still sometimes open. So you can take a look inside the yard from a distance.
Continue the route straight ahead.
Listen | Fleets
To your right, you see many sailing ships. These are mostly pleasure yachts. In fact, Monnickendam is currently the largest marina in the Netherlands. In summer, the town attracts many water sports enthusiasts who go sailing on the IJsselmeer, among other things.
Listen | Fleets
To your right, you see many sailing ships. These are mostly pleasure yachts. In fact, Monnickendam is currently the largest marina in the Netherlands. In summer, the town attracts many water sports enthusiasts who go sailing on the IJsselmeer, among other things.
The city also has a large brown fleet of around 25 historic ships, such as tjalks, botters and clippers. Chances are you will see one here. This brown fleet gets its name from the sails, which used to be often brown. Nowadays, this is not always the case. One of these sailing ships is the Loungeklipper, the brown fleet in a new guise This ship is fully equipped for team trainings and trips with friends and family for a weekend or a day. Visit www.loungeklipper.nl for more information.
Listen | Posthorn (part 1)
At the end of the road, follow the bend to the left. Transporting goods and people to and from Monnickendam was mainly done by water. Due to its location, the port town formed an important link between the sea and the hinterland.
Listen | Posthorn (part 1)
At the end of the road, follow the bend to the left. Transporting goods and people to and from Monnickendam was mainly done by water. Due to its location, the port town formed an important link between the sea and the hinterland.
Until the closure of the Purmer Ee around the year 1400, Monnickendam was an important seaport that rivaled Amsterdam as the region's most important city. But to prevent floods in the hinterland, the Count of Holland decided to close off the Purmer Ee. In exchange, Monnickendam received more extensive excise duties. That seemed like a good deal, but it certainly wasn't. Indeed, the Monnickendammers did not know that the seaport would silt up because of the closure of the river. As a result, large sea ships could no longer reach the port and henceforth sailed on to Amsterdam. Thus, the closure of the Purmer Ee led to the decline of Monnickendam and the prosperity of its competitor Amsterdam. Monnickendam turned into a transit port for goods to and from our capital city.
Until the construction of the Afsluitdijk in 1932, Monnickendam remained an important port, although it was no longer a major seaport. After the closure of the Purmer Ee, the construction of the Afsluitdijk was the second major setback for town. This cut Monnickendam off from the North Sea, so to speak. Fishing declined and more and more traders and craftsmen left the town. Yet the economic decline also had positive consequences. Monnickendam was so poor that there was not enough money to replace old buildings. As a result, we can still enjoy the historic centre today as it looked centuries ago.
Listen | Posthorn (part 2)
Transporting goods and people to and from Monnickendam was mainly done by water. Due to its location, the port town formed an important link between the sea and the hinterland.
Listen | Posthorn (part 2)
Transporting goods and people to and from Monnickendam was mainly done by water. Due to its location, the port town formed an important link between the sea and the hinterland.
It wasn't until 1879 that a wagon service between Monnickendam and Landsmeer, north of Amsterdam, first appeared. This horse-drawn carriage left here, from the Posthoorn - the hotel/restaurant on the right side of the street.
Travellers initially disliked the carriage. It was an uncomfortable way to travel compared to transport by water. Monnickendammers were used to moving along quiet canals and ditches. Now they were in a cramped carriage that bumped over bad roads. But soon the popularity of overland transport increased, as good roads became more frequent and the tram made its appearance. Here too, on Noordeinde, the street where you walk now, there used to be a tramway.
First, a steam tram rode through the street here. That must have been quite a change for Monnickendammers. This used to be a quiet street with carts and children playing, now you had to watch out for the tram - a noisy vehicle surrounded by dense clouds of steam that took up the whole road. But that too changed. The steam train was soon replaced by an electric tram.
Moreover, the tramway made Monnickendammers less dependent on the water. They could now travel to the capital within an hour and 15 minutes.
Watch the video in the main menu to go back in time. And see the old tram ride through Monnickendam. After the video, continue the route by walking back a little way and turn right at house number 60 into Griet Scheeljannessteeg.
Listen | Smoking
To your right, you can see fishmonger De Boer. This is the only remaining fish smokehouse of the many that were on this street. Of all the fish the Monnickendammers traded, most was processed here.
Listen | Smoking
To your right, you can see fishmonger De Boer. This is the only remaining fish smokehouse of the many that were on this street. Of all the fish the Monnickendammers traded, most was processed here.
This was done by salting, drying or smoking, among other things. This made the fish keep much longer. A salted anchovy, for instance, could be kept for years.
Smoking fish became increasingly popular from the year 1700 onwards. Slowly the number of smokehouses in Monnickendam increased. At its peak, there were as many as 34 here. This made this industry very important to the town's economy. But in the 20th century, the number of smokehouses in Monnickendam slowly decreased. This was because after the construction of the Afsluitdijk, there was no more fishing on the IJsselmeer.
Look up, too, at the roofs of the buildings in this street. You can see that some buildings do have a lot of chimneys. You can recognise the old fish smokehouses from these. For smoking fish was done over smouldering wood fires in 'hang' - rooms where fish hang in the smoke from these wood fires. For this, the smokehouses usually used oak wood. This leftover wood from the shipyards was in abundance.
Want to see for yourself how things work in a fish shop with a smokehouse today? Then watch the video. You can find it in the menu. After watching the video, continue straight on.
Listen | Soap-making and fish trade
See the mansion on your right at number 21? That's De Bruinvis, the former home of the soap factory owners.
Listen | Soap-making and fish trade
See the mansion on your right at number 21? That's De Bruinvis, the former home of the soap factory owners.
You might not say it, but soap making is also related to waterfront living. Because to make soap, soap makers needed grease, like fish oil or whale oil.
Take a few steps back and look up. At the very top of De Bruinvis's facade, you can see two barrels that recall this old craft of soap making. In the barrels are the letters W and S that stand for Winter Soap and Somer Soap. The difference between these types is that Somer Soap is two parts hemp oil and one part rapeseed oil and Winter Soap the other way around. As the names indicate, the one variety was used from St Martin's Day, on 11 November, until Shrove Tuesday, six weeks before Easter. And the Somer soap during the other, summer half of the year. Soap-singers kept their soap in barrels, on which they branded the letters W and S to tell the two types of soap apart.
What also stands out in the facade is the image of a Porpoise. This dolphin-like fish used to live in the Zuiderzee. The mansion owes its name to this image. The porpoise refers to the two families that used to live in the building: the Bruyn and Visscher families.
If you now look at the left side of the street, you will see an old shop: De Bonte Os. This used to house a craftsman, namely the butcher. He sold his meat products by displaying them in front of his shop. Not in a separate stall, but on the window shutters that he folded down. When the cow butcher closed, he folded the window shutters for protection. And that helped. Because today, the house still has its original 400-year-old shopfront. Apart from the shutters, the beautiful wooden window frame also dates back to the 17th century.
Look above the shopfront. Here you can see a gable stone depicting a cow. This refers to the old craft of cow butcher that was practised here. The large-scale trade in meat often took place in another town in the region, namely Purmerend. This trading town was known for its many markets, such as its large cattle market. If you want to know more about that, walk the I-Tour Purmerend. It has markets as its theme. Continue the route straight ahead.
Listen | Houses with curves
Have you noticed that some houses on this street have a curve between the pavement and the facade? On your left, you see one such house. Do you know what these curves were good for?
Listen | Houses with curves
Have you noticed that some houses on this street have a curve between the pavement and the facade? On your left, you see one such house. Do you know what these curves were good for?
Take the quiz question in the menu to find out. After answering the quiz, continue the route by walking straight ahead.
Listen | The Play Tower
It was often difficult for ships to reach Monnickendam safely at night. It was pitch dark at sea and the harbour was sheltered behind the island of Marken. To show boats the way in the dark, there was a lighthouse.
Listen | The Play Tower
It was often difficult for ships to reach Monnickendam safely at night. It was pitch dark at sea and the harbour was sheltered behind the island of Marken. To show boats the way in the dark, there was a lighthouse.
Well, actually, the people of Monnickendam had renamed the Speeltoren a lighthouse. At the time, it was the highest point in the town. Burning pots of pitch atop the tower guided the Zuiderzee skippers on their way. The Speeltoren did not yet have a spire back then; this was added later.
As well as for the fishermen, the Speeltoren was also important to other craftsmen in Monnickendam, namely the carillonneurs. They played the tower’s elaborate carillon. And even though Monnickendam is no longer the bustling port town it once was, the town carillonneur still plays this impressive musical instrument every Saturday morning. He is accompanied by the moving statues of a goddess and horsemen at the top of the tower. A unique spectacle, particularly as this is the oldest working carillon in the world.
Continue along the route, turning right into Kerkstraat .
Listen | Gable stones
Typical of Monnickendam are the gable stones you find on many houses - artistic stones on the corner or at the front of a house with carved images.
Listen | Gable stones
Typical of Monnickendam are the gable stones you find on many houses - artistic stones on the corner or at the front of a house with carved images.
The plaque on the façade usually depicts the occupation of the building’s occupant. This is also the case at Kerkstraat number 52. Pieter Winkes, who lived here in the 18th century, had two occupations: first he was a sailor and later an inspector of the rope-making workshops. The plaque depicts a ship, referring to his first trade as a seafarer, and the name of the rope walk.
The façade plaques are closely linked to the history of Monnickendam. When Monnickendam’s prosperity declined, the production of façade plaques ceased. But when the town flourished once more at the end of the last century, thanks to the rise in recreational boating, new façade plaques began to reappear in the townscape. This was because a sculptor had come to live in the town again, creating these traditional works of art. And he continues to do so to this day. One example is the plaque on the house opposite, at Kerkstraat 54. This is where the sculptor himself lives. He created the plaque on his home in the year 2000. It features a golden hand with letters – these are the initials of his loved ones.
Listen | Orphanage
Here, in the former orphanage on your left, an old craft, that of rope-maker, is still regularly practised.
Listen | Orphanage
Here, in the former orphanage on your left, an old craft, that of rope-maker, is still regularly practised.
Rope makers were indispensable in a port town like Monnickendam. All ships being built and repaired needed ropes. From thin lines to pull the sails taut to thick ropes to tie the boats to the shore. Therefore, during its heyday, Monnickendam had many rope mills, where ropes were produced. These were often located outside the town centre, as rope-making required a long ropeway. Here, rope makers would stretch and braid their ropes over a length of dozens of metres. They made these from flax and hemp. The braiding pattern and thickness of the rope depended on what the final product was intended for.
Continue the route straight ahead.
Listen | Bakery
To the right of the white house, is a brick building with stepped gable, this used to be a bakery. One of many that Monnickendam had.
Listen | Bakery
To the right of the white house, is a brick building with stepped gable, this used to be a bakery. One of many that Monnickendam had.
There were very many bakeries in Monnickendam. There were several reasons for this. Firstly, because a lot of grain was traded in the port town. Sea-going ships brought this in from the Baltic states. Boats from Monnickendam sailed in that direction with herring, salt and woven fabrics. After selling their goods, they sailed back loaded with rye and wheat. This was then processed into bread in Monnickendam.
Listen | Goths Zuideinde
Look at the gutters on both sides of this street. These are remarkably deep. Want to know why the gutters on this street are so deep?
Listen | Goths Zuideinde
Look at the gutters on both sides of this street. These are remarkably deep. Want to know why the gutters on this street are so deep?
Then play the quiz. After answering the quiz, continue straight ahead, back to the tourist office.
Listen | End Historical Monnickendam
From making ships and gable stones to baking bread and smoking fish, you have just discovered the diverse crafts that were all carried out in Monnickendam.
Listen | End Historical Monnickendam
From making ships and gable stones to baking bread and smoking fish, you have just discovered the diverse crafts that were all carried out in Monnickendam.
And how the rise and fall of crafts coincides with this town's access to water, first through the closure of the Purmer Ee and later the construction of the afsluitdijk.
We hope that by looking at the Monnickendam crafts, you will have learned a lot about this historic trading town. Are you curious and want more information? Drop in at the VVV tourist office. Here you can also go for a city tour with a guide, who will tell you a story about a craft earlier in the tour. By taking a tour with a guide, you will learn even more about this beautiful city in a different way and from a different angle. See also the website www.oudmonnickendam.nl
