Volendam Artists' Village
In the audio tour 'Volendam Artists' Village', Leendert Spaander tells the story of Volendam through various paintings from his Spaander Collection.
Stroll across De Dijk and through the cosy streets and learn more about the village's special places. View the paintings in the app and compare the current situation with that of the past. Play the occasional quiz and be surprised by the fun facts. In short, discover Volendam in an educational and unique way. Curious about the walking route? Listen to the fragments below!
About Leendert Spaander
Leendert Spaander (1855-1955) was a visionary. He envisioned the future of tourism and understood that the postcard, with its visual expressiveness, was the means to attract artists and visitors to the special Volendam.
And with success: Volendam became the great...
Stroll across De Dijk and through the cosy streets and learn more about the village's special places. View the paintings in the app and compare the current situation with that of the past. Play the occasional quiz and be surprised by the fun facts. In short, discover Volendam in an educational and unique way. Curious about the walking route? Listen to the fragments below!
About Leendert Spaander
Leendert Spaander (1855-1955) was a visionary. He envisioned the future of tourism and understood that the postcard, with its visual expressiveness, was the means to attract artists and visitors to the special Volendam.
And with success: Volendam became the largest artists' colony in Western Europe and because of his vision, more than 1800 artists from all over the world stayed in his hotel with many also working in his studios. Artworks by these artists on which they portray Volendam can be found in leading museums all over the world.
Take a closer look
You are going to see this
Listen | Introduction
Good day, my name is Leendert Spaander. I was born in 1855 and died in 1955 and I am your guide for today.
Listen | Introduction
Good day, my name is Leendert Spaander. I was born in 1855 and died in 1955 and I am your guide for today.
As an art lover and operator of THE hotel in Volendam, I would like to take you back in time. We go to the year 1910, for a walk through this traditional fishing and artists' village. Yes, you heard correctly; artists' village. You probably didn't know that. In my time, many well-known artists visited Volendam. And they usually stayed with us, in hotel Spaander. Not for nothing did three of my daughters marry a painter and my entire hotel is full of paintings. But more about that later.
Oh dear, the wind is picking up and then it can get bleak here at the Zuiderzee, so let's get started right away. Will you walk with me to the lobby of Hotel Spaander? Click 'start' and I will automatically tell you fun facts along the way. Along the way, you can see paintings in the app at the various sights and occasionally take a quiz. Have fun!
Listen | Hotel Chip
In 1881, my wife Aaltje and I founded this hotel and tried to get painters from far and wide to come here.
Listen | Hotel Chip
In 1881, my wife Aaltje and I founded this hotel and tried to get painters from far and wide to come here.
So we hung the painting 'Artist come binne' in front of the door to bring in the painters. And we succeeded! For years, we have had artists from truly every continent visiting us. Because this fishing village with its narrow streets, beautiful light and fishermen in traditional costumes had a great attraction for the artists.
Many painters had such a good time with us that they gave a work of art as a gift. Or they paid with it, which was also possible. The collection now consists of 1,400 artworks. Even now, you can see some of these works hanging on the wall in the hotel. During this walk, you will come across the spots from different artworks. And afterwards, you will have plenty of time to walk around my hotel and take a look at some of the artworks with your own eyes.
Continue the tour by walking from the lobby at the back of the hotel into the car park. Walk through to the water and stand with your back to the IJsselmeer.
Listen | Fairground
Once a year, there was a fair in Volendam. This fair was here in the car park next to the water.
Listen | Fairground
Once a year, there was a fair in Volendam. This fair was here in the car park next to the water.
This place was called 'the Clay Park' and many artists could always be found there. Most of the time it was quiet in our village. Just act normal, you'll be crazy enough, is what we Volendammers thought. But during the Kermis it was always a big party. There were performances, parties and even a Turkish Mill. A miniature Ferris wheel, you would call it now.
The artists stayed in the studios around the corner, which we built especially for them at the back of the hotel. Unfortunately, nothing of the studios themselves remains. Only next to the Kale's smokehouse, there is still an attic with a window where Hermanus van der Haar, among others, worked. His work of botters in the harbour was made here.
In the app, also take a look at Paul Hermanus' painting. You are now standing exactly on the spot where the painter created this work of art in 1898. Compare the painting with the current situation.
Turn around and follow the water to the right. Turn right onto the Noorder havendijkje. Arriving at the dike, turn left.
Listen | Clockpost
See the yellow wooden structure on your left? This is Volendam's bell tower.
Listen | Clockpost
See the yellow wooden structure on your left? This is Volendam's bell tower.
We rang the bell when the fishing fleet entered the harbour. But also on special occasions, such as when a fellow villager got married. The whole village would turn out and we would stand here waiting for the brand-new bride and groom. One of my artsy guests depicted that very beautifully. So want to take a look back in time? Then check out Guinier's painting in the app.
If a Volendammer was getting married, you would not only hear the bells ringing, but you could also see it on the Bellpole. What could you tell? Play the quiz to find out.
Continue your tour by following the road to the cottage. Keep the water to your left.
Listen | The Bap
There was a lot of chatter at the chat house. For this was where retired fishermen spent their days. They sat squatting against the fence chatting and commenting on passers-by.
Listen | The Bap
There was a lot of chatter at the chat house. For this was where retired fishermen spent their days. They sat squatting against the fence chatting and commenting on passers-by.
These baps or grandpas knew exactly what was happening in our village. That an unknown botter had walked into the harbour, the mayor's wife was pregnant and the catch of cod was good. Even the painters thought it was a beautiful scene, those old men in costume lined up. Look at my son-in-law Augustin Hanicotte's painting on your phone like this. Then you can see how the old fishermen sat here.
Further down De Dijk, you can see another sculpture of a bap on a bench , created by Volendam artist Jans van Baarsen.
Continue walking straight ahead on the embankment with the harbour on your left.
Listen | Fish auction
This is where it used to be always bustling: there were fishermen folding and splitting nets and fishermen carrying baskets of fresh catch onto the quay. For here was the fish auction, the economic and bustling heart of our village.
Listen | Fish auction
This is where it used to be always bustling: there were fishermen folding and splitting nets and fishermen carrying baskets of fresh catch onto the quay. For here was the fish auction, the economic and bustling heart of our village.
See the green wooden building on stilts to the left of the road? That's the fish auction. Just down the road was the slipway, where sailboats lay on dry land for repairs. And in the smokehouses, fishermen smoked their catch. Take a look at my other son-in-law Wilm Wouters' painting on your smartphone. Here you can clearly see what went on here on and around the fish auction.
Continue your tour by walking further up the embankment to the end of the harbour.
Listen | Beeper race
Look out over the water to the left. Not much has actually changed in the past century. There are still many fishing boats, especially flat-bottomed boats such as botters.
Listen | Beeper race
Look out over the water to the left. Not much has actually changed in the past century. There are still many fishing boats, especially flat-bottomed boats such as botters.
These are the wooden ships with two keels on the sides instead of one at the bottom. The unusual ships in the harbour were a picturesque picture for artists to capture. And they are still a favourite subject of photographs for many visitors.
A hundred years ago, the sweet IJsselmeer was still the salty Zuiderzee and flatboats were used to catch fish. Now you can often take them on a fun and relaxing sailing trip. Once a year, the flatboats compete with each other during the Pieperrace. The harbour is then full of ships from the brown fleet and the horizon is dotted with boats. A magnificent spectacle that reminds me of the old days......
Want to see with your own eyes the mighty clippers, botters and tjalks gliding across the water during the Pieperrace? Then visit Volendam during the Pieperrace days and see the event up close!
Past the harbour, walk straight ahead along Zuideinde and at house number 50, on your right, go down the stairs. In front of you you will see the back of the little church. Turn right and cross diagonally into the alley next to the building called O.L. School. You now emerge at the front of the little church.
Listen | Reformed Church
On your left, you see Volendam's Protestant church. It's just a small church, because most Volendamers are Catholics. Not me by the way, my parents came from Durgerdam and were Protestant.
Listen | Reformed Church
On your left, you see Volendam's Protestant church. It's just a small church, because most Volendamers are Catholics. Not me by the way, my parents came from Durgerdam and were Protestant.
From the size of the little building, you can see that the Protestant community in Volendam was never very large. Yet the little church has been there longer than most houses. It was built way before my time in 1658 in the form of a stolphoeve. That is why it is also called the Stolphoevekerkje. It was an attempt to convert the Volendammers to Protestantism. Not very successful, by the way, as most of my fellow villagers remained Catholic.... The church can be seen in many paintings, such as this one.
By the way, the little church is typically Volendam. Take a good look at the little building and you will probably see why. Want to know how you can tell that this is a Volendam church? Then play the quiz in the menu.
Walk back to the alley and continue straight ahead into Rokersgracht, 2nd road on your right. Walk down Rokersgracht until you reach Europaplein. Turn left and walk past shopping centre 'de Havenhof'. The last building on the left is the museum.
Listen | Volendam Museum
Of course, I can now tell you about Volendam in all sorts of ways, but if you want to see in real life how we used to live here, you can also visit the Volendam Museum.
Listen | Volendam Museum
Of course, I can now tell you about Volendam in all sorts of ways, but if you want to see in real life how we used to live here, you can also visit the Volendam Museum.
Here you can see what our houses used to look like inside and how we were dressed in everyday life. But you will also find some beautiful paintings that are very worthwhile. So be sure to take a look there. We will then continue the tour from this point.
Continue your tour by crossing at the museum and walking back along Europaplein. Past the car park, turn left into the 4th street and walk down Stationsstraat.
Listen | Tram
You are now walking down the street where the steam tram used to enter Volendam. From 1906, this tram rode into Volendam with a lot of huffing and puffing.
Listen | Tram
You are now walking down the street where the steam tram used to enter Volendam. From 1906, this tram rode into Volendam with a lot of huffing and puffing.
At first, we had to get used to this noisy, weird mode of transport. Just like some painters. You can see this, for instance, in the drawing by Pennoyer, who thought the tram was just a curious thing.
But soon we were very happy with the tram. For it brought many tourists to our village. Later, an electric tram even came.
At the end, walk up the drawbridge and turn right into Edam road, keeping the water on the right.
Listen | Trekschuit
This is where the train barge used to arrive. Before the arrival of the tram line, Volendam was best reached by such a train barge.
Listen | Trekschuit
This is where the train barge used to arrive. Before the arrival of the tram line, Volendam was best reached by such a train barge.
It was a boat pulled by a man or a horse. Travellers had to sail for almost an hour to get from Edam to our village, while the electric tram later took only about five minutes. Still, travelling by train barge had something. It was quiet so you could enjoy the scenery. But also comfortable because the boat slid gradually over the water. So no engine noises and bumps! Moreover, a barge was a typical Dutch means of transport that many painters appreciated. Just look at their paintings on the screen.
At the end of the road, turn left onto the Meerzijde.
Listen | Dril
You are now in the Dril. This neighbourhood with its wooden cottages, lots of water and drawbridge was popular among painters.
Listen | Dril
You are now in the Dril. This neighbourhood with its wooden cottages, lots of water and drawbridge was popular among painters.
Walk up to about ten metres from the Dril Bridge and then take a look at Cor Oel's painting in the app. After all, you are now standing on the spot where this artist created this masterpiece about a hundred years ago. Can you see the differences between now and then?
Weird name for a neighbourhood actually, the Dril. Want to know how this neighbourhood got its name? Then play the quiz in the menu.
Keep the water on your right and follow the road to the yellow drawbridge.
Listen | The little yellow bridge
Drawbridges... the painters who came to us loved them. Of course, a drawbridge is very picturesque and typically Dutch.
Listen | The little yellow bridge
Drawbridges... the painters who came to us loved them. Of course, a drawbridge is very picturesque and typically Dutch.
And the little pedestrian bridge you see further along also had a striking yellow colour. That's why many painters immortalised it. For example, Jan Rinke. Check out his colourful painting on your phone like this.
Walk across the yellow bridge straight into the maze and take the 1st street on the left, then you will be in a square.
Listen | The Maze
Cosy looking here, don't you think? The cosy houses, squares and a maze of narrow alleys.
Listen | The Maze
Cosy looking here, don't you think? The cosy houses, squares and a maze of narrow alleys.
The Maze, as we have called this little neighbourhood for years, invites you to take a look around. Still, I would ask you not to walk into just any gardens and cottages. No matter how cosy, it is a private place where people live.
Cross the square and turn left at the end of the street at the Jan Tol memorial. Turn right at the sculpture shop towards St Vincentius Church.
Listen | St Vincent's Church
For years, my Catholic fellow villagers made a mile-long trek to Edam every Sunday to attend mass.
Listen | St Vincent's Church
For years, my Catholic fellow villagers made a mile-long trek to Edam every Sunday to attend mass.
In fact, we had no Catholic church here until 1860. Fortunately, this St Vincent's Church was built then.
As you can see, the church is close to the IJsselmeer. Consequently, the parish priest did not always keep dry feet.... In 1916, the church and the houses around it were hit by a major flood disaster. I remember it well, the small houses were flooded up to the top floor. It was a terrible situation. Some of the residents of the houses we were fortunately able to shelter in my hotel located higher up on the dike until the water level dropped again. I couldn't leave my fellow villagers to their fate, could I?
Looking at Hermanus van der Haar's painting on the screen, you can see how high the water was in 1916.
The church is open to tourists only during the summer months, feel free to take a look.
Continue your way by walking past the church on the right and then cross the next drawbridge up the embankment.
Listen | North End
We have arrived back at the dike by the IJsselmeer. Take a quiet look across the water. Do you see Marken in the distance?
Listen | North End
We have arrived back at the dike by the IJsselmeer. Take a quiet look across the water. Do you see Marken in the distance?
In my time, this was still an island. Back then, you could only sail to Marken from Volendam on fishing boats. Nowadays, the former island is connected to the mainland by a dike.
If you look to the right of the dike, you can see Volendam. From this perspective, a well-known Volendam hobby painter painted the dike after a heavy snowstorm. By the way, we know this painter better as a 'palingsound' singer. Want to know which Volendam singer created this painting? Then play the quiz.
Follow the road to the right, towards the shops.
Listen | Tourism
The painters have meant a lot to our village. Volendam actually owes its worldwide fame to them. Their artworks of Volendam fishermen's wives, flatboats and vistas went all over the world.
Listen | Tourism
The painters have meant a lot to our village. Volendam actually owes its worldwide fame to them. Their artworks of Volendam fishermen's wives, flatboats and vistas went all over the world.
Along with their enthusiastic stories about the wonderful time they had here. Thus, the artworks actually became the first tourist brochures for Volendam. And the painters not only sold their creations, but also the village! Moreover, the painters were keen to take home Volendam clothes and attributes. Or photos of people in traditional costume that they could use for their paintings. This is how the first souvenir shops and places where tourists can have their picture taken in Volendam costume were created.
The tourist shops have been around for years now. Which is just as well, because since the fishermen disappeared, the tourists have been making money. Actually, the art painters were the first real tourists.
Even now, painters still come to Volendam. And they often paint the tourists. For instance, how they stroll along the shops or take photos dressed up in Volendam costumes. You can see that in some of the more recent paintings from my collection. Take a look at these on your smartphone.
Follow the road past the shops until you reach Hotel Spaander again.
Listen | End Volendam Artists' Village
We have arrived back at my hotel. I hope you enjoyed my village and the paintings as much as my artsy guests.
Listen | End Volendam Artists' Village
We have arrived back at my hotel. I hope you enjoyed my village and the paintings as much as my artsy guests.
Want to see the paintings you looked at during the tour in real life? You can, because most of them hang on the wall in Hotel Spaander. So feel free to walk around my hotel to see the paintings of, for example, the fish auction, the botters, the drawbridge and the submerged church with your own eyes.
Would you also like to get to know other towns or the vast countryside in this region better? Then check out other (audio) tours on our website!